Leaving.. on a Jet Plane..

I used to live on the east coast while my mother lived (and still lives) in Hawaii. I'd hop on a plane in Newark and about 11 hours later, I'd be on the ground with a lei around my neck and minutes from the first of many mai tais. Hawaii is a great destination but getting there isn't always much fun.

I was reminded tonight of that long haul flight as I began to wet out the first fiberglass  layers on the centerboard trunk as described in the first paragraph of the first meaningful page in the manual. I've basically just gotten to my seat and strapped myself in, only I wish I could just wake up in Hawaii vs. having to actually stay awake the entire time.

One thing I didn't expect to feel was nervous as I was first laying out the 'glass. Not really from anticipation, though that was part of it, but from something far more primordial. The nerves were coming from an area of self-preservation. I thought, if I made a mistake with this boat, the fiberglass schedule for example, I could die. I could hit a stump in the middle of the Gulf Stream and die. That's partly what ran through my head as I vigorously stamped out Every Last Wrinkle and also made me realize I was going to be in this for the long haul. No short cuts. I was going to do this right or not at all.

Dry fiberglass near the centerboard trunk hole. Looks cool just like this. Looks better wet.

Many people beginning a PocketShip have other boats under their belt, or in the water as the case may be. For others, like myself, this is the first boat we'll be building. Now, I literally nailed together a few pieces of plywood and used caulk to seal it up to be able to paddle a floating contraption that got me to an island in the middle of a man made lake in New Jersey. Total trip: 60 feet, both ways. But PocketShip is no floating contraption nor do I plan to sail only 20 yards. With that in mind, I'll be covering some of the things you don't normally read about in Other People's Blogs.

The first is the kit itself. There were at least a dozen plywood sheets on the double pallet plus the transom and breast hook and the cradle materials. The transom and breast hook are cut from sapele, by the way. When I was pricing the plywood from various sources, I couldn't get sapele and was going to settle for an Okoume transom. The sapele transom is worth the price of the kit, seriously. I did the old woodworker trick of licking a finger and tracing a line to see what the wood would look like finished and nearly cried, it was so pretty. I suppose licking the wood directly would work just as well, but I don't recommend it.

You can lick these, no problem.

What I didn't expect were the little notches that hold the pieces to the plywood sheet, like those found in plastic model kits. The pieces have to be cut away carefully (I used a small Japanese saw) and then each of the nubs need to be sanded down. I suppose not all of the nubs need to be sanded down as certain parts later will be flush trim routed but I couldn't really router the circular area of each side of the centerboard trunk. So I broke out the 60 grit sandpaper and got the tabs flush to the edge before laying down the glass. Nub removal will be done at least 900 times before all is said and done. I also didn't expect the Okoume plywood stickers. I sanded these off with my random orbital, but I know there are more of these out there.

The second is the epoxy. There are two types shipped with PocketShip: a fast hardener and a slow hardener. The difference, theoretically, is that a fast hardener would be used in cold temperatures and a slow hardener in warm, confirmed by Chris, the other Minneosta builder. Given I live where I do, I don't think either will make much of a difference. I'm not going to worry about it. Ratios are pretty simple: 2:1 resin:hardener. You know the resin in that it's thicker; the hardener shoots out whereas the resin oozes. Mix it up pretty good with a short stick and you'll be good to go. The manual recommends 30 seconds per pump. I hand mixed for 2 minutes for up to 5 pumps. I haven't worked with "thickened" epoxy yet but that's likely the weekend, after my 3 coats of epoxy dries.

2 parts left, 1 part right. Auto dispensed.

The third is the amount of epoxy to use. I found that the center board used 15 pumps each of resin and hardener, split into 3 sessions, for a total of 5 pumps per mix up. That seemed to make the fiberglass sufficiently wet and clear, yet still have a good weave show through. I should add that each pump is actually a carefully monitored dispense based on the special pumps provided with the kit. One pump of resin all the way down is 2x the volume of one pump of the hardender, all the way down. The wet Okoume also looks wonderful, by the way. Even though the centerboard won't be bright, it's promising to see as I plan to keep significant parts of the boat bright.

First ever 'glassing. It's really happening!

Finally, the manual calls for 'glassing the INSIDE (emphasis theirs) of the centerboard trunk. It's not really labeled "inside" or "outside" so the premise here is to be sure you glass the sides that will be facing each other. Just be sure you've got a mirror image and you should be fine. It doesn't matter which side the hole for what will be the pendant sheave will be, just that you don't wind up glassing the inside of one half and the outside of the other. That could be bad.

I also decided on the cabin sole wood. Many hours were spent on this decision: research, questions, more research. I wanted something unique but practical; pretty but not overly so. My first choice was Bubinga. It's a really nice wood used for floors but reports say it smells funny when it gets wet. That's not particularly good for some modes of transportation, say... boats? My second choice was Brazilian Cherry. But the only source was online and I like to pick my boards. So my third choice was Padauk (pronounced "pa-dook'"). A local supplier was milling them when I stopped by to view his wares. He gave me a pretty good deal - lower than African Mahogany (a really nice wood, but fairly common), and about 1/3 less than I was finding online. He gave me a sample so I can try it out. I was sold. It is going to look *amazing* against the vanilla cabin interior.

The only catch is it must be dressed in acetone just before glue up and finishing or else the natural oils will interfere. It also needs a good UV resistant varnish or will dull to a dark brown (which isn't bad, either). Given this is for the cabin sole, I won't have too much trouble with UV. I'm pretty excited -- it's going to look awesome. I got enough to make the tiller lamination out of it and the rub rails, too.

It's been a good PocketShip day.