Counting Chickens - The Other Rub Rail

I spent the better part of my free time today working on the port rub rail, but that wasn't what I'd planned to do when I first opened the garage door today.  I thought I'd add the second laminate to the first on the starboard side to see what the ash looked like and therefore determine if I wanted to keep it or go all padauk.

Prepped the ash strip but wound up putting it back whence it came.

After curing almost 20 hours, I began pulling the screws out, making my way aft.  I got a few off when I heard a sickening "shlurpy" sound, something akin to a slug scratching along sandpaper.  Sure enough, the rail that up until that point was held in place by the big brass screw pulled away from the hull.  I rushed to mix up some thickened epoxy and screwed the rail back against the bow.  Alas, somewhere in Lake Superior some fine summer day from now someone will find a set of padauk-ash-padauk rub rails, expertly carved, inexpertly glued, floating amidst the dreck of the sea.  That would be my rub rail.

It got cool here over the last couple days, and the outside temperature dipped into the high 30's overnight.  I didn't have my garage heater on so I'm sure it didn't get above 50 in there.  Cold weather of course means longer cure times, something I forgot given how warm it's been (for us) over the last couple days.  Still, there was work to be done, and I wasn't going to let a little thing like glorified glue hold up today's progress.

Like the other day, I converted my Ottoman and living room into a hot water wood bending station.  It went much faster and better this time, and in fact almost too good as I put a sharper curve into the rail than I intended.  It wasn't until later that I understood what this meant and the ramifications for today's build.

Boiling water and padauk is a great way to dye clothes pink.

With a bit of a learning curve behind me, I found that the best way to apply the glue was to pre-drill and pre-screw the first couple at the bow.  These would go all the way into the hull and then back out again.  It took a little bit of fussing as the curve I put into this piece was more severe than I wanted so that it actually bowed quite a bit away from the boat; it wouldn't lie flush.  The only way it would work without going back into the living room to reduce the bend would be to extend the rail out until it fit.  Luckily, I scarfed up the rail longer than needed just for such an occasion.  This is something I recommend for all builders -- don't build a 15' scarf for a 15' boat.  Add a few feet for any number of good reasons, chief among them is leverage in pushing this to fit.

First screw goes on. You can see this was my third attempt.

I then removed the rail from the hull and with these three or so screws still in, I applied thickened epoxy to the entire length, taking care not to hit the hull with the rail as I maneuvered it into place.  In doing so, some of the mid-section areas weren't quite gripping the plywood as well as the starboard side did.  It was then that I realized there's a length of about 4 feet from the forward cabin locker to the aft cabin wall that I have access to the rail from inside the cabin.  Meaning, I could screw into the rail, using the wall as leverage.  It also happens that this is pretty much where the most severe arc of the railing is.  That worked well and wish I realized that when I was doing the starboard side.

Scrap pieces hold the screws in place from inside the cabin through the rail.  This successfully pulled the rail flush to the hull.

When I got to the transom, I spent a long time looking at the boat from the front.  I couldn't tell if it was an optical illusion due to a little bit of a listing or the uneven 'glassing at the bow, but it seemed like the rail was slightly lower on the "right" side.  When I pulled out the ruler, sure enough, it was 1/4" inch lower all around.  So, out came the screws!

This photo bugged me so much I wound up pulling 2/3 of the screws out and moving the rail up 1/4".

It was dark outside by the time I finished re-screwing the rails and cleaning up the handiwork, but the first two layers are done.  I'm not sure if it 's better to do both port and starboard first then work outward, but I guess I won't know.  In the end, I'm satisfied with the effort.  The two rails meet nicely at the bow and taper back.  They both end just where the topside meets the hull, at that little corner.  I think the port side is still a little bit (by like 1/8 inch) lower than starboard but there's not a lot I can do about it now.  At a glance, it looks more than fine, and with spit and polish, it won't be noticeable to anyone but me.  And if someone points it out, it won't be just my rails floating in Lake Superior.

Meeting at the bow.

When I put the ash rail back into the garage, I grabbed a sheet of foam I plan to use for my cushions.  It's quite nice how well this fits with just a bit of trim.  The left side, if flush against the curve of the seatback, comes right to the edge of the footwell.  In other words, perfect.  I'll need three here, as expected, and it will be a fun and interesting project.  There just so happens to be a lot between now and then.

Test fit of the cushion foam.  This is a long way off!

I'm off to St. Croix for a few days for a friend's wedding.  Hopefully that's enough time for this to cure.  High on the list is to finish the rub rail lamination; the anchor well (all areas forward), including the bowspirt cut out; and the portlight cut outs.  I probably won't cut the laz hatches or the hawse pipe holes until the re-flip.  But it's real close.

Rounding the Curve - Rub Rail Installation

When I first read the manual and the blogs, long before I ordered my kit, I noted how everyone had difficulty with the bow area and the rub rails.  In the end, I didn't think the bow area was that bad as I used some fancy physics with a number of clamps.  But the rub rails have earned every bit of aggravation.

I'm using padauk for my rub rails, a very nice hardwood.  Trouble is, like most hardwoods, it isn't very pliable.  It doesn't bend much and when it does bend, it likes to snap back into place.  So when I tried dry fitting the rub rails on the other night, it would literally tear the screws out from the plywood and spring back into nice, sturdy, straight lumber.  That's what a tree does, so I can't get that mad at it.  Frustration set in; onto the forums I went, and off to Oktoberfest, too.  What better way to get your mind off boatbuilding issues than fresh pints of haus brau.

Cask Schwandtoberfest!

Alas, my Oktoberfest stupor could only keep me diverted for so long.  Back to the forums I went, and coincidentally, it turns out there are a few builders working on these same pages from the manual right now, and all of us were struggling in one way or another.  Most were having issues with their wood splitting.  Indeed, this was the most common problem.  This wasn't happening to me, and in fact splitting would be preferable as it would basically be like kerfing and I could easily and happily sand over the splits.  Alas, my splits were happening to the plywood of my hull where I've spent the better part of 18 months systematically assembling.

I wanted to try to do this without heating the wood as space is at a premium and there's nowhere I could easily leave 18 feet of lumber for a few hours in a safe place.  Nowhere, that is, except my living room floor.  Once again, I converted my Ottoman into a workbench and broke out the cookie sheets.  I first  heated the wood with a heat gun, keeping a knee on the lumber.  This worked well and I got about 6 inches or so of a permanent bend out of it after 20 minutes.  There are many websites that discuss this process, some in great detail, and I was diverted for awhile reading about it.  I wanted to see how far I could get without water, but figured, to really make it work, I'd have to take the plunge (ahem).

I dumped out the spaghetti pot, refilled it with water, and brought it to a boil.  I then brought the boiling pot of water over to the living room, soaked a rag in it, and wrapped the padauk in the rag.  When it cooled after a few minutes, I hit it for about 10 minutes with a heat gun then wrapped it once again in boiling water.  All the while, I weighed down the lumber with a 10 lb weight hanging from a screw I put in, as well as my bucket of lead weights that I'm melting for ballast some time in the next few weeks.  I let this sit for a few hours, came back, and had about 12" of permanent bend.  I'd hoped this was enough as without reconfiguring my entire living room, I wouldn't be able to bend it anymore.

Tiger inspecting the workshop.

Yes, that's a bend you see.

Lots of errands later (including hauling out my MacGregor as the mooring balls will be removed next week -- sigh) I figured it was time to try to assemble the rub rails once again.   With the advice of craig from the forums, I got myself a set of 1/4 x 3" deck screws with nice, thick teeth.  I drilled a pilot hole into the lower breasthook and then screwed the rub rail in.  To my relief and amazement, it held!  I was able to take the rub rail all the way to the transom, applying ample force simulating the actual construction.
 

Holding firm - a big screw holds this in place, drilled through the lower breasthook.

The magical screws.

I was only going to epoxy down the first 1/3 but I was worried I wouldn't be able to move it if I made a mistake, so down to the basement I went to mix up enough thickened epoxy to finish the job.  With the big screw holding, I moved aft, applying epoxy all along the length.  I then drilled pilot holes every foot or so and screwed 1 1/2" deck screws to hold the rail in place.  Soon I was at the transom.  Here, the top of the rub rail sits right at the corner of the topsides and the hull.  It looks super sharp.  I then took out the big screw at the bow slowly and epoxy'd up that area, then rescrewed it in.  I then stood back to admire my work.  Only thing was, it was too high at the bow and would've interfered with the bowsprit.  Wow, that would've been bad.

View at the bow, from the top.  This will be one of the first things anyone will see as I pull into dock.

First layer.  It really adds an elegance to the boat.

Quickly, I pulled out the big screw and the two screws aft of it, pushed the rub rail down below the lower breast hook, drilled three more holes, and stood back and prayed it would hold.  It did.  First row: done!  I spent awhile cleaning up the squeeze out and applying more epoxy where needed, but overall, I'm pleased with how it came out.  Later tonight, I'll cut off most of the forward excess so I can get the garage door closed.  I am told the other layers go on easier, if anything because the screws will actually have something to grip.  And of course I still have to do the port side, which I haven't bent yet.  But it's nice to know it's possible.

Final placement, just at the lower breasthook so as to avoid any bowsprit issues.

Incidentally, the 'gold cap' of the screw looks pretty cool, like the rub rail's bedazzled.  I'm thinking about it, because the boat doesn't have enough bling as it is.

Cockpit and Topsides Fiberglass Fun

The difference between a job and a hobby is when you can quit.  If I were being paid to build PocketShip, with expectations of certain levels of progress, I probably would've been fired a long time ago.  Tonight is a good example.  After 'glassing most of the cockpit and topsides, I'd had enough and stopped to do something else.  I could've added the second epoxy application, 'glassed the transom, and (sigh) sanded some more.  All of those things will certainly be done, but I'd had enough.  In fact, I'm actually slightly ahead of schedule for once.

I began today by removing the green tape and sanding down the edges.  As noted in the last post, I'm happy with my technique and no longer worry about mucking up the 'glassing.   The final piece of this learning curve actually happened during the centerboard 'glassing exercise, when I used several pieces to cover the curves instead of one big sheet.

Peeling away the tape and breaking the 'glass along the edge.  This gets sanded down and the next layer gets applied on top of it, a couple inches overlapping.  Note the dark spot in the photo above and below.

The new edge gets feathered in..

And then disappears.  Epoxy makes everything better.

This photo is the footwell. The top part overlaps about 2 inches and is virtually seamless.

Another example of the tape technique at work.

But I can't just rest on my laurels. There's more 'glassing to do!  So I laid out the 'glass on the family room floor and cut them to spec for four of the remaining parts: both forward side panels and the seatbacks roughly amidships.

Layout of the 'glass to be installed.

Draping the final pieces over the seat backs.

Once those got wet down, I cut the piece that sits in front of the companionway. This is a high traffic, high stress, high visibility area so had to be good.  Or, I'll just get some cushions.

Finalizing the welcome mat. Note the two freshly 'glassed side areas.

And then once that got put down, I finished up the night with the forward side panels.  The 'glass didn't cross the bow.  I'll be adding a few layers there, anyway, so wasn't concerned about that.  I had to open the garage door here to finish up, standing outside in a light drizzle.

Forward topside panel.  I have a hawse pipe I plan to install here.

So there you have it -- the external topsides 'glasswork done except for the transom.  I plan to install the rub rails tomorrow (Friday) and have that cure an extra long time.  There's a big Oktoberfesty kinda thing Saturday with my wife as the designated driver, so there won't be any building Saturday (and with any luck, Sunday either).  It's a hobby, right....