Rounding the Curve - Rub Rail Installation

When I first read the manual and the blogs, long before I ordered my kit, I noted how everyone had difficulty with the bow area and the rub rails.  In the end, I didn't think the bow area was that bad as I used some fancy physics with a number of clamps.  But the rub rails have earned every bit of aggravation.

I'm using padauk for my rub rails, a very nice hardwood.  Trouble is, like most hardwoods, it isn't very pliable.  It doesn't bend much and when it does bend, it likes to snap back into place.  So when I tried dry fitting the rub rails on the other night, it would literally tear the screws out from the plywood and spring back into nice, sturdy, straight lumber.  That's what a tree does, so I can't get that mad at it.  Frustration set in; onto the forums I went, and off to Oktoberfest, too.  What better way to get your mind off boatbuilding issues than fresh pints of haus brau.

Cask Schwandtoberfest!

Alas, my Oktoberfest stupor could only keep me diverted for so long.  Back to the forums I went, and coincidentally, it turns out there are a few builders working on these same pages from the manual right now, and all of us were struggling in one way or another.  Most were having issues with their wood splitting.  Indeed, this was the most common problem.  This wasn't happening to me, and in fact splitting would be preferable as it would basically be like kerfing and I could easily and happily sand over the splits.  Alas, my splits were happening to the plywood of my hull where I've spent the better part of 18 months systematically assembling.

I wanted to try to do this without heating the wood as space is at a premium and there's nowhere I could easily leave 18 feet of lumber for a few hours in a safe place.  Nowhere, that is, except my living room floor.  Once again, I converted my Ottoman into a workbench and broke out the cookie sheets.  I first  heated the wood with a heat gun, keeping a knee on the lumber.  This worked well and I got about 6 inches or so of a permanent bend out of it after 20 minutes.  There are many websites that discuss this process, some in great detail, and I was diverted for awhile reading about it.  I wanted to see how far I could get without water, but figured, to really make it work, I'd have to take the plunge (ahem).

I dumped out the spaghetti pot, refilled it with water, and brought it to a boil.  I then brought the boiling pot of water over to the living room, soaked a rag in it, and wrapped the padauk in the rag.  When it cooled after a few minutes, I hit it for about 10 minutes with a heat gun then wrapped it once again in boiling water.  All the while, I weighed down the lumber with a 10 lb weight hanging from a screw I put in, as well as my bucket of lead weights that I'm melting for ballast some time in the next few weeks.  I let this sit for a few hours, came back, and had about 12" of permanent bend.  I'd hoped this was enough as without reconfiguring my entire living room, I wouldn't be able to bend it anymore.

Tiger inspecting the workshop.

Yes, that's a bend you see.

Lots of errands later (including hauling out my MacGregor as the mooring balls will be removed next week -- sigh) I figured it was time to try to assemble the rub rails once again.   With the advice of craig from the forums, I got myself a set of 1/4 x 3" deck screws with nice, thick teeth.  I drilled a pilot hole into the lower breasthook and then screwed the rub rail in.  To my relief and amazement, it held!  I was able to take the rub rail all the way to the transom, applying ample force simulating the actual construction.
 

Holding firm - a big screw holds this in place, drilled through the lower breasthook.

The magical screws.

I was only going to epoxy down the first 1/3 but I was worried I wouldn't be able to move it if I made a mistake, so down to the basement I went to mix up enough thickened epoxy to finish the job.  With the big screw holding, I moved aft, applying epoxy all along the length.  I then drilled pilot holes every foot or so and screwed 1 1/2" deck screws to hold the rail in place.  Soon I was at the transom.  Here, the top of the rub rail sits right at the corner of the topsides and the hull.  It looks super sharp.  I then took out the big screw at the bow slowly and epoxy'd up that area, then rescrewed it in.  I then stood back to admire my work.  Only thing was, it was too high at the bow and would've interfered with the bowsprit.  Wow, that would've been bad.

View at the bow, from the top.  This will be one of the first things anyone will see as I pull into dock.

First layer.  It really adds an elegance to the boat.

Quickly, I pulled out the big screw and the two screws aft of it, pushed the rub rail down below the lower breast hook, drilled three more holes, and stood back and prayed it would hold.  It did.  First row: done!  I spent awhile cleaning up the squeeze out and applying more epoxy where needed, but overall, I'm pleased with how it came out.  Later tonight, I'll cut off most of the forward excess so I can get the garage door closed.  I am told the other layers go on easier, if anything because the screws will actually have something to grip.  And of course I still have to do the port side, which I haven't bent yet.  But it's nice to know it's possible.

Final placement, just at the lower breasthook so as to avoid any bowsprit issues.

Incidentally, the 'gold cap' of the screw looks pretty cool, like the rub rail's bedazzled.  I'm thinking about it, because the boat doesn't have enough bling as it is.